Surf In Verse

Surfing
By Sasha Walker/Mills
(Posted at http://go-surfer.com/poems-surfing.htm)

It's not the waves you catch,
How hard or how strong.
It's the wind in your hair,
The ocean's song.

Knowing you can't,
Almost certain you can.
Endless blue,
With a bare sight of land.

Getting to know the oceans,
Dolphins and fish your friends.
Too many mistakes,
That you need now not mend.

The loss of all worries,
The bad, the worst.
Nothing is practiced,
Nothing rehearsed.

The surfer's only knowledge,
Of what's going on,
Is the coming of the waves,
In the wake of the dawn.

(c)2004Sasha Walker/Mills

***

You Lost Me
By Claudio Borges
(Posted at http://go-surfer.com/poems-surfing.htm)

The wave came
and u had your chance to get on it
but u didn't realize
what a good ride it would be
so you didn't swim.
Now
that unique wave is passed you by
the tides have changed
and you'll never feel the ride.
(c)Claudio Borges

***

Ocean Lines
By Andy Harney
(Posted at http://go-surfer.com/poems-oceanlines.htm)

Ocean lines stacked to the horizon,
in ever deepening shades of blue.
The ocean is whipped into a frenzy,
by storms a thousand miles away.
Frothy whitecapped waves,
begin the migration as separate mogles,
moving in the same direction.
Slowly they join forces one to another,
and another,
forming a link, a bond.
Now rolling in concert
across the watery expanse.
Groomed by winds from opposing direction,
Their shape is defined.
And heading to the cove I see,
Ocean lines stacked to the horizon
in ever deepening shades of blue.
(c) 2003 Andy Harney

***

Surfing
By Sarah Martin
(Posted at http://www.helium.com/items/1742909-surf)

Sand grains rub against the soles of my feet,
like a thousand diamonds cutting edge; a complementary pain.
The smell of fresh sea salt smothers my nasal passage,
like an overprotective mother; I've come home.

As I venture out towards the water, amateurs return.
They don't feel the wave, be the wave, like i do.
Me and the sea go together like oxygen to lungs.
Without the sea, I am nothing, I'm dead.

Cold, fresh, blue liquid arouses my feet.
I take a deep breath and praise the picturesque views.
Me and my board swim out to the deep waters.
I am not afraid, the sea and i become one.

I sit and wait for the perfect set.
Paddling rapidly ready for the drop.
Im in; above the curve seduces me.
A turn with the wave, glide together.

I look through the tube to the end.
I don’t want to leave.
My heart pounds, breathing increasing.
Head rush occurs, pressure building.

It's as if me and my wave are making love.
The feeling; oh what a feeling...
Finally, the tube comes to an end.
The great orgasm as i reach my goal
We did it again; perfection.
Me and the wave...We become one...

***

This is a trailer for Lines From A Poem, a film by Nathan Oldfield.

The film is a document about an overlooked and underappreciated niche of the surfing experience: classical waveriding using traditional equipment. This original and compelling perspective of the art form is the debut of independent filmmaker Nathan Oldfield. Featuring a seamless blend of contemporary and archival footage and filmed at the premiere locations on the east coast of Australia. The film stars Tom Wegener, Alex Knost, Dane Peterson, Belinda Baggs, Mike De Temple, Scott Dillon and others. Music by Purplene, ukiyoe, Small Defence and Mike McCarthy (whose song “A Lazy Day for Teabags” is heard in this trailer).

An evocative sequence of Alex Knost waveriding as seen in Nathan Oldfield’s debut film, Lines From a Poem. Mike McCarthy performs ‘Shelters and The Sea’ on the soundtrack.